Pouring a New Trend: Who’s Who in the Rise of Alcohol-Removed Spirits
Innovations in Non-Alcohol
You may find it surprising or even blasphemous to read about alcohol-removed drinks in a blog about the Napa Valley, but the market for non-alcoholic (NA) spirits is skyrocketing. Consider that Heineken partnered with Marvel Studios to promote Heineken 0.0 during the Super Bowl, in the nation’s first televised commercial for an alcohol-removed beverage. The emergence of the NA spirits industry presents new alternatives for thirsty consumers and endless possibilities for local businesses.
Another unexpected twist is that roughly 80% of consumers of NA beverages are not actually dry — just regular drinkers looking for an alternative when they are the designated driver, on medication, or trying to drink less. Buzzkill Wines puts it bluntly, advertising its alcohol-removed Sauvignon Blanc “for people who can’t, shouldn’t, or don’t want to get f*&^ed up.”
This new sector is challenging tradition in an edgy and authentic way, and having fun doing it. Jargon includes NOLO (no or low alcohol), alc-free, mocktails, zero-proof, sober curious, conscious drinking and mindful drinking. If you alternate between alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, you are tiger-striping.
A handful of Napa locals with solid alcohol beverage industry experience have taken the radical leap and are blazing their own trails in the NA field. The list includes a sommelier, a winemaker, a published cocktail writer and a “sober bartender.” Their stories provide insight on why the NA market is surging, the challenges they have faced in making and marketing quality alcohol-removed spirits, and new products and trends headed our way.
They are also part of a nationwide collective of pioneers who are helping to create a new non-alc beverage culture. This movement has its roots in the traditional values of temperance and wellness — as expected — but also emphasizes inclusion with a splash of irreverence.
Alcohol Removed Wine: Say What?
Let’s get straight to the shocker. Yes, there are actually entrepreneurs in Napa who carefully source and crush wine grapes, ferment high-quality wines, and then incur additional costs to gently remove the alcohol. In the process they lose 30% of the volume of their product, and end up with an alc-free wine that costs more to produce than regular wine and appeals to only a fraction of consumers.
Why would anyone do this? The answer is simple. The founders of these brands truly believe in their product because they have personally wanted a tasty wine-based alternative to 11-14% alcohol by volume (ABV) — and they are not alone. NielsenIQ sales data shows that in 2021 consumers spent a total of $3.3 billion on no- and low-alcohol products, and the market ballooned 113% over the prior year.
Meet Sovi Wine Co.
Photo credit Sovi Wine Co. for all Sovi photos
Early pioneers in the NA wine space were Alexander and Julia Littauer, a husband-and-wife team who launched their brand Sovi in 2021 (the name is a play off of “sober vino”). Julia is a certified Sommelier and Alexander has a Wine Spirits & Education Trust Diploma. The two worked for years in the Napa Valley in brand management and marketing before getting their MBAs at Cornell University. At Cornell, the Littauers were known for hosting wine-tasting parties to share their love of wine with classmates. But there were more and more occasions where they wanted to drink something special, without the hangover.
Neither were big beer drinkers, and they did not like the ultra-sweet non-alcoholic wines available at the time. They realized there was a business opportunity for a high-quality alc-removed wine, and put a business plan together as they were wrapping up their MBA. They launched Sovi Wine Co. soon after moving back to Napa, and have never looked back.
During the research and development phase the Littauers had to tackle the novel and finicky process of de-alcoholizing wine. They opted for vacuum distillation, a process that involves heating the wine in a vacuum-sealed container to lower the boiling point of alcohol. This allows the alcohol to evaporate and separate from the other compounds in the liquid — but along with the alcohol some of the beverage’s key aromas and elements are removed. Through experimentation the Littauers honed in on what varietals and blends worked best to achieve the wine-like characteristics they were trying to craft.
Another big hurdle for the Littauers was tied to their novel decision to offer their first varietal in a single-serving can. They considered cans to be more eco-friendly and recyclable than traditional glass wine bottles, and more convenient for the consumer who might not want a whole bottle at a time. One can of Sovi is equivalent to 1.5 glass(es).
However, the canning company co-packer was specialized in energy drinks and let the Sovi oxidize, ruining the entire first batch. To add insult to injury, the Littauers had to pay additional fees to have the wine disposed of. The Littauers rolled up their sleeves and soldiered on, and today the company is thriving.
Sovi currently offers a Sparkling Rosé, a Sparkling White and a Red Blend, all in cans “for everyday enjoyment,” and bottles of Reserve Red and Chenin Blanc for special occasions.
Sovi’s clientele includes young mothers, as the Littauers initially expected, but also Baby Boomers seeking wine-alternatives for health reasons and to avoid contraindications with medication.
Although the majority of Sovi drinkers are women, an increasing number of men have been drawn to the brand since its release of a red blend.
When asked about the influx of NA brands on the market, the Littauers see the rising tide as lifting all boats. What makes Sovi stand apart from many of its competitors is the Littauer’s commitment to purity. They do not add any sugar, sweeteners, or natural or artificial flavors, except for a minimal amount of grape juice concentrate for certain blends, to get the exact balance they are looking for.
If you are curious to try Sovi and support a locally-owned family brand, their sampler pack is a great way to try several varietals.
Meet Evyn Cameron of Buzzkill Wines
Photo credit Emma K. Morris
When Napa winemaker Evyn Cameron was approached by entrepreneur Molly Fedick about trying her hand at a non-alc wine, she was intrigued. When she heard the tongue-in-cheek name of the brand — Buzzkill — she asked “where do I sign?” It was not just the fun name and bold branding that drew Evyn in, but the freedom of exploration which appealed to her passion for all things sensory.
Photo credit Buzzkill Wines
Evyn grew up outside of New York City, where her mother worked for Swiss company Givaudan, the largest manufacturer of fragrance in the world. As a child Evyn loved blending her own perfumes with essential oils in little glass vials that her mother would bring home from work. In college at Boston University, she excelled in blind wine tasting courses. Evyn has applied her ability to perceive and distinguish subtle flavors, aromas, notes and elements to her winemaking endeavors for high-end producers in the Napa Valley.
Evyn had never worked on a product that is outside the reach of the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), with its strict regulations about wine additives. The rules are different once the alcohol is removed. (The FDA considers wine a non-alcoholic beverage if it contains less than 0.5% ABV.) Now, working with Buzzkill on alc-removed wines, she can play with flavors and aromatics in a completely new way after much of the flavor is stripped away during the de-alc process.
Evyn took the lead on researching the de-alc process, choosing spinning-cone technology to remove the alcohol. This process involves heating the wine and then passing it through a spinning cone column, which uses centrifugal force to separate and remove the volatile compounds responsible for the alcohol content while leaving behind the desirable flavors and aromas.
Because de-alcoholizing wine will always result in loss of flavor profiles and aromas regardless of the technology used, Evyn started by making a wine that had elevated texture and aromatics. “If you start with something more, you will have more at the end.”
Evyn then explored flavoring and honed in on organic products from the best companies that offer natural flavors with the sensory profiles of Sauvignon Blanc, such as thiols, passionfruit and citrus. She found this process exciting and enjoyed the artistry of it.
When asked about attitudes towards NA wines, Evyn finds that most people are openminded and thirsty to explore. She does encounter skeptics who say that there will be no longevity with this product and that it will never be great — but she disagrees.
“You need to understand that this beverage is it’s own thing, and will not taste or have the exact same mouthfeel” as traditional wine. “It’s an alternative beverage with components of [wine], but it does not hold the weight of an alcoholic beverage. Alcohol is a binder of flavor and texture, and it doesn’t exist with this product. You need to recalibrate your palate a little bit after the first sip, then you can really appreciate it.” She feels Buzzkill hit the mark with its first release of Sauvignon Blanc. “I’m really proud of it.”
Evyn admits that pricing is tough. Many people think they should pay the same amount for an alc-removed wine as they do for sparkling water or a NA beer, but it is more costly to make a NA wine. She hopes that as people are educated about the product and the intricate process involved in making it, they will be more understanding.
Photo credit Buzzkill Wines
What’s next for Buzzkill? Next up will be a Cabernet Sauvignon, likely followed by a Pinot Noir and additional white varietals. The company is working on a partnership with Whole Foods and hopes Buzzkill wines will be available in stores soon.
If you would like to support a female-founded brand made in Napa, Buzzkill is currently available on its website, Boisson, and Amazon. In the words of the company: “We are Total Buzzkills, and we are proud of it. Can’t wait for you to get un-lit with us.”
Meet Good Times Alc-Free
Photo credit Charlie Crebs
Napa local Charlie Crebs is a self-described “sober bartender” and founder of Good Times Alc-Free craft cocktail popup bar. He explains that non-drinkers don’t want to be stuck with a Sprite or fruit juice when their friends are having a lovely glass of wine, a fancy cocktail or a refreshing craft beer. First, they are missing out on the ritual of drinking something special, carefully crafted and presented in a gorgeous glass with garnish. But they also may not want to stand out or answer personal questions about why they aren’t drinking, or kill the vibe during a celebration.
Most importantly, businesses are missing out on significant revenue if they can only offer a $1.50 soda to a non-drinker. Market research firm Nielsen has reported that sales of nonalcoholic drinks in the U.S. grew 20% from 2021 to 2022, and are expected to continue growing.
Charlie, who has been dry for 15 months, credits sobriety as allowing him to “unlock to superhero powers.” He jokes about making an informercial about the power of drinking less or not at all. “You can look amazing, have 6-pack abs, have a job and not lose it!”
Joking aside, he recognizes that “sober” is a powerful word because it can make people feel defensive about their own drinking habits. He is vocal about his sobriety in order to educate consumers about NA options, and to let those struggling with their relationship with alcohol know that they are not alone. He is seeing an alignment in communities that formerly did not interact — the alcohol beverage world and the sober world — and is excited to foster a new culture of inclusion where everyone has a seat at the table (or bar), regardless of what they are drinking.
This passion is what has led Charlie to launch Good Times Alc-Free, a craft cocktail popup bar. Charlie’s goal is to host a popup event in the Bay Area for every major “drinking” holiday, as an outlet for those who are dry on a day that typically revolves around alcohol. The inaugural popup event was on St. Patrick’s day at Naysayer Coffee Roasters in Napa, where patrons socialized and sampled a variety of NA wines, beers and beautiful craft cocktails. Next up is a Cinco de Mayo popup at Jeffries General in downtown Napa.
These events are a great way to try various NA drinks without having to order six-packs or full bottles, which can be an expensive way to taste the options since unlike regular beers, wine and spirits, most NA beverages cannot (yet) be sampled at bars by the glass.
Charlie also wants Good Times Alc-Free to be the go-to consultant for corporate and private events where the hosts want to offer NA beverages, because “everyone deserves to have a good time without compromising their sobriety.”
What’s next for the NA market? Charlie encourages patrons interested in NA beverages to ask their favorite bars and restaurants to carry them. At Wilfred’s Tiki Lounge in Napa where Charlie bartends, there is a set Mocktail menu with carefully curated non-alc cocktails. He predicts that in the next 3-5 years, alcohol menus at restaurants and bars will include NA spirits, and just as you can order an Impossible Patty on your burger, you will be able to discreetly opt for a non-alcoholic spirit as the base in your cocktail.
If you are going to the Bottlerock music festival in Napa this spring and are dry, want to avoid beer goggles, or are intrigued by tiger-striping, be sure to look up the Good Times Alc-Free popup bar. Charlie’s offerings will include NA beers, wine, frosé and cocktails.
Meet Dry Goods Beverage Company
Photo credit to Erik Castro for all Dry Goods Bev Co. photos
“It sounds like fat free brownies — neither satisfying nor delicious.”
This was Adrienne Stillman Krausz’s knee-jerk reaction when a sober coach recommended that she try NA drinks after she gave up alcohol while trying to conceive. The published cocktail writer of “Where Bartenders Drink” and “Spirited: Cocktails from Around the World” reluctantly tried some Sovi wines and zero-proof gin substitutes, and was pleasantly surprised. She continued to explore NA options, and was inspired to launch The Dry Goods Beverage Company, a Napa-based online store for alc-free wine, spirits and cocktail alternatives.
This enterprise allows Adrienne to combine her passion for adult beverages and her marketing experience with her newfound focus on wellness. She runs the customer-facing side of the business and posts recipes adapted from her cocktail book. Her husband Jake runs logistics and operations for Dry Goods, which taps into his skills as VP of Operations at Arkenstone, his family winery in Angwin.
Adrienne explains that alc-removed beer is the closest to the real thing because beer is only 4-8% ABV generally, so you are only removing a small percentage of the product when you remove the alcohol. De-alcoholizing wine impacts the product more, at 10-15% ABV. Spirits are the hardest hit at 40% ABV — when you take out the alcohol, you take out 40% of the product. There is no non-alc vodka, for instance, because by definition vodka is a neutral spirit, so you are left with water once you take out the alcohol.
“Right now the alc-free space is defining itself in relationship to alcohol, and that is a challenging place to be. When you’re trying to be something that you’re not, you’re always going to fall short in some way. So the challenge for the space is charting a new direction that obviously exists in reference to alcohol, but also exists in its own right by itself.”
Although Dry Goods Beverage Company carries many products that can be used as one-for-one replacements for alcohol, some of Adrienne’s favorites are new creations that do not try to imitate any particular alcohol.
For instance, Bax Botanicals Alc-Free Spirits makes a zingy Verbena NA spirit that tastes like lemon verbena with a touch of sea salt, lime and fresh mint (and is 0 calories). Although it doesn’t taste like gin, it can replace gin in NA cocktails, or it can simply be prepared with soda water and a slice of cucumber.
Dry Goods does not carry any NA beer because the Krausz’s have found it tends to be readily available at local retail even in small communities. It is harder to find high-quality wine, spirits and cocktail alternatives at local retail, so they are focused on carrying those products.
Adrienne predicts that a wave of NA options is coming to local restaurants and bars. Many high-end hotels and 3 star Michelin restaurants already offer alc-free options on menus and NA beverage pairings along with wine pairings — such as the French Laundry in Yountville. Adrienne sees the growth of NA options as an evolution of the farm-to-table and plant-based trends, where sourcing and ingredients are paramount along with inclusion.
“It’s about offering great hospitality, so that no matter who comes into your restaurant or bar, whatever allergy or dietary restriction or thing they’ve got going on, you can not only offer them something but offer them a great experience. There’s an increasing recognition that if you don’t do that, you’re losing revenue.”
What’s next for Dry Goods Beverage Company? Although the Krausz’s have no short-term plans to open a retail location or make their own NA wine, these are both possibilities down the line.
In the meantime, you can visit their website for NA cocktail recipes and kits or alc-free wines, or take their quiz for personalized recommendations based on your drink preferences.
Where Are the Napa NA Beers At?
We were unable to identify any Napa Valley breweries presently making a non-alcoholic beer, although there is clearly a market for it. The IWSR Drinks Market Analysis reports that NA beer and cider make up 70% of the NOLO category’s growth.
The closest NOLO brewer outside of Napa is Bella Snow in Sonoma, which makes low-alcohol gluten-removed beers including a West Coast IPA and Scottish-style “soft ales” with essence of grapefruit and mandarin.
Lagunitas Brewing Company in Petaluma has a popular IPNA (non-alc IPA).
Family-owned Barrel Brothers in Windsor has a large selection of NA beers with terrific names including Dark Sarcasm Porter and ¿Por Qué No?
If a reader gets the scoop on a Napa-based Brewery making NA beer, please send us a note!
Have Your Taste Buds Been Tickled?
Does the word mocktail make you thirsty? Are you interested in offering elegant NA drinks at your next event? Do you want to try tiger-striping? If so, you know who in Napa is working to cater to your needs in the new world of NA beverages.